"Displays gorgeous fruit, with a medley of wild berry, blackberry, huckleberry and boysenberry fruit that’s pure, rich and intense, yet elegant, supple and refined. The fruit flavors are sustained on the finish, ending minerally, with fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2017.—" WS

 

 

Every year, I get excited about the wines from Tensley. And every year, I don’t sell nearly as much as I would like to. Why? Well, I think it has to do with the nature of the beast. It isn’t the Australian Shiraz that more of you are familiar with. Nor is it trying to be Northern Rhone Hermitage or Cote Rotie. It’s its own animal – a magical/hypothetical blend of the two – all of the rich, lush fruit from Australia, but still with the smoke and earth of Northern Rhone.
 
Given the general unfamiliarity of my customers (you) with top-quality California Syrah, I can only do so much when I try and sell them to you. After all, I am not in the “push” business. Unfortunately, while the wines from Tensley get huge scores from the Wine Advocate, that usually doesn’t happen till after the wines are sold out. So, by time people get a second opinion that backs up mine, it’s too late.

Oh well. It’s not like I have stock in the company. And I only buy what I have sold.

Still, I really like the wines. And I think they are incredibly fairly priced. And while it isn’t my job to push wines on you, I think we have an implicit understanding that I should at least try and expose you to wines I think are fantastic. Agreed?

 

I am always on the lookout for a killer California Syrah. At their best, I find them tremendously compelling, offering a mixture of what I love from the grape in Australia and France. The problem for me is not finding the great wines from the U.S., but finding them at a price that is reasonable. Too often, I try something, thinking it’s absolutely killer… but priced twice as high as it should be.

There is one producer, though, who particularly impresses me in his ability to deliver high quality Syrah, year after year – Joey Tensley. Tensley established his winery in 1998, and has grown to 3,300 case production spread among 14 different wines. In the grand scheme of things, they are still a teeny tiny winery. If you visit their tasting room in Los Olivos, you are likely to find Joey or his wife Jennifer manning the counter! But don’t let their small size fool you – they are producing mammoth wines!

What is really impressive is when you look at the scores they have received compared to the prices they charge. Last year, I did a little comparison with some of the biggest names in California Syrah, looking at their Wine Advocate scores for the past six vintages (2002-07) and the approximate price based off Wine Searcher or what we sold it for. Here’s what I found:

Araujo – average score 93.0 pts - $150
Konsgaard – ave score 94.5 pts - $175
Colgin – ave score 95 pts - $280
Alban Syrah Reva Vyd. – ave score 96.7 pts - $125
Saxum James Berry – ave score 95.7 pts - $125

Here’s the kicker… Tensley Colson Canyon? Average score – 93.3 pts! Price? $40 before discount!

As always, the Colson Canyon is the only one Tensley’s wines to see any new oak.  This vintage was aged in 20% new and 20% one-year-old French barrels to add a bit of sweet toast and vanilla to the finish. The blackberry fruit jumps out of the glass, but is more than adequately backed up by hints of chocolate, licorice and pepper. The tannins are extremely well-integrated and taut acidity keeps the whole thing from veering out of control…

As I said, the 2007 was what I thought I was selling... we got 2008. Here's what I had to say after trying that...

 

I've had every vintage of the Colson since 2001. I love the stuff. This may be my favorite. Maybe. I'm not just saying that for effect. Ask my wife... I was yelling because the stuff was so good. (I get that way sometimes... like I'm rooting for the wine like my Phils... I start yelling when it is rocking... I know... I'm weird...)

Slightly cooler weather overall in 2008 has tamed some of 2007s overall hefitness and meatiness, resulting in more complex aromas and more immediate accessibility. Didn't need to decant a bit. But make no mistake, this wine is going to age. I left some in the glass overnight and some in the re-corked bottle. Tasted them both again this morning. (Doesn't everybody have wine with their coffee?)
 
The wine in the glass tasted as fresh as it did the night before! Not a lick of oxidation to it and no let up in the aromas or flavors.
 
Oh, and if you want to know, this vintage most reminded me of the 2002... also a 95 pt rating from Parker - "The incredibly opulent, voluptuously full-bodied, seamless 2002 Syrah Colson Canyon Vineyard smells like blueberry and blackberry jam interwoven with melted licorice and flowers. The prodigiously complex nose is followed by a noble, concentrated, sensational mouthfeel with well-integrated acidity, tannin, and wood. This full-throttle Syrah is impeccably crafted, very harmonious, and stunning to drink. Anticipated maturity: now-2014."

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