Terre Rouge Viognier 2018

Sale $19.99

Buy six or More $17.99

94 pts Wine Enthusiast

Compare with:

• Jean-Michel Gerin Condrieu Les Eguets 2019 – 94 pts WE @$100
• Delas Condrieu Clos Boucher 2018 – 93 pts @$96
• St. Cosme Condrieu 2017 – 93 pts @$85
• Cayuse Cailloux Vineyard Viognier 2019 – 94 pts @$75

Ahhh… Viognier. Quite simply, this is my “desert island” white.

So what is the allure? It starts with the nose… imagine every aromatic fruit and flower you can… take a whiff… ahhh… honeysuckle, jasmine, apricots, peaches… and more!

Then here is where things really get interesting…

The truly great Viogniers are not at all sweet, as the nose might imply. Rather, they are fermented to dryness. That’s the tightrope walk, as great Viognier balances this richness of aroma and flavor with finesse and subtlety. And while there is a remarkable richness and creaminess to the wine, it is balanced by tingling acidity and fine tannins. Yes, tannins. Like we associate with red wines. You find them in Chardonnay as well, but few other whites possess any noticeable amount. Viognier does, and it provides structure and weight to the wine. So while you can certainly sit on your porch, enjoying the weather and your wine, there is more than enough heft to this wine to pair with rich foods, even lighter meat dishes like pork, veal or chicken.

So what’s the catch? How come we all don’t drink more Viognier?

The catch is this: Viognier is notoriously difficult to grow and vinify. It takes wineries decades to understand the vines, how to tend them, then how to ferment and vinify the wine to balance all of the competing aromas, flavors and structural components and form them into a cohesive wine.

It requires so much expertise and experience that, in 1965, the grape was nearly extinct, with just 20 acres of it still rooted in its ancestral home of Condrieu.

But the wine is just… so… flipping… delicious! With a steady, dedicated following, the grape has bounced back to some degree, although there are still more than 50 times as many acres planted to Chardonnay! And there aren’t many producers with extensive experience outside of Condrieu, which means the amount of truly great Viognier is fairly paltry.

And expensive! See the comparisons above!

So what’s the deal here? Is this the REAL deal? Does it really taste like Condrieu? Is it truly GREAT Viognier?

Yes to all…

Terre Rouge was founded by Bill Easton in 1986 in Amador County California. Not exactly a burgeoning mecca for wineries at the time, land was cheap. Guided by his love for Rhone wines, Easton planted Syrah, Grenache, Mourvdre and others… but importantly for us, he also chose Viognier. After 35+ years of experience, Easton is one of the California’s foremost experts on the “Rhone” grapes. And…

Let’s just get to the wine, then?

Whole-cluster pressed, fermented dry then aged in a combination of old and new French oak barrels. Aged on the lees for added complexity and richness. Classic honeysuckle aromas give way to bright peach, pear and mineral notes. There's a lovely creaminess to the wine that balances all of the brightness. The exotic notes of lychee, honeysuckle, and white peaches are all there, so you can pair with more flavorful foods - think chicken with mango salsa, ceviche, etc. But, as I said, everything is kept in check so perfectly, you can go simpler foods as well - I often enjoy with a simple roasted chicken. 

“Mineral, peach skin and apricot are just a few of the aromatic nuances that give this full-bodied and well-balanced wine a fascinating Old World expression. Fresh acidity braces peach and apricot flavors while the mouthfeel broadens with each sip.”


Or reply. The wine is available now in Chapel Hill. Saturday, as ordered, in Hillsborough.