Hirsch Gruner Veltliner Hirschvergnugen 2020

Sale $19.99

Buy six or more pay $17.99

90 pts Falstaff

In case you haven’t figured out, we love Gruner Veltliner. Heck, the whole world seems to love it, as sales have been growing like crazy! The risk with such a surge is that the wines will all be thought of as interchangeable. The same. And that perception has, at times, been borne out by the direction of the winemakers. They see what is selling, so, in order to keep up with demand, and make as much money as possible, they align their wines with the market taste. (I’m looking at you Australia and Argentina.)

Thankfully, the wine-making traditions in Austria go back a thousand or more years. And there is a rebellious streak ingrained in the winemaking tradition. So we are blessed with a wide range of styles, from Hiedler’s juicy bombs to Brundlmayer’s laser-like precision.

‘Hannes Hirsch makes wines that fit somewhere in between these styles. But good luck trying to pin his style down. Among all his colleagues, ‘Hannes seems to find joy in being inscrutable. He doesn’t release his wines all at once, selling the “vintage” ,like others do. Rather, he releases when he feels the wines are ready. Some are rich and leesy… some mineral and edgy… but all are just plain delicious!

I’ve got some more of his fancier Gruners on the way, but thought I would introduce you first. Everyone, meet ‘Hannes. ‘Hannes, meet everybody. What would you like to say about this wine? “The loess and loamy soils that lie on the outer rims of Kammern, the traditional wine-growing village, are among the most fascinating terroirs in Kamptal. They gives our wines great aromatics with spicy and supple taste. Great food wines!Subtle, soft fragrance with delicate aromas of yellow fruit and citrus notes. Crisp and fruit-driven on the palate with enticing apple and quince characters. Medium-bodied with plea sant freshness and vitality, hints of spice on the lingering finish.”

“Bright yellow-green, silver reflections. Fine herb spice, yellow apple fruit, something like papaya. Medium body, juicy, fresh structure, mineral, white pome fruit, already well drinkable." Falstaff

Or reply. The wine will be available tomorrow afternoon in Chapel Hill. Wednesday, as ordered, in Hillsborough.