The wines from Francois Villard strike an interesting balance… he harvests later than most of his neighbors, and his wines are definitely not “restrained”. Yet, by utilizing whole clusters and little new oak, he manages to balance the fruit. As Josh Raynolds of Vinous comments, “he has pulled off the neat trick of capturing the opulence of the fruit while retaining energy.”

THERE ARE TWO WINES BEING OFFERED.Having trouble deciding which one to try? Well, the easy answer is some of each!

Francois Villard St. Peray Version 2019

Sale $31.99

93 pts Wine Spectator

St. Peray sits at the southernmost limit of the Northern Rhone. With just over 185 acres planted, and most production being made as sparkling wines, the still whites of the region are uber rare.

65% Marsanne / 35% Roussanne from 20 year-old vines. Matured 11 months on the lees with frequent stirring in 3-5 year-old barrels.

The yin and yang of Northern Rhone whites, these two are rarely seen apart from each other, as their blend is greater than any individual bottling. Marsanne adds citrus, peach and apricot flavors along with a floral nose, typically of honeysuckle. Roussanne is intensely flavored, but hard to pin down in our traditional “it tastes like this” way of description. For fruit, pears are the most common descriptor, but there is an umami-like impression of herbal tea and Macadamia nuts. There is richness, yet balance. Acidity, but not overwhelming.

 “A mix of pineapple, white ginger and jasmine notes, with an undercurrent of yellow apple fruit, is all held together with salted butter and shortbread threads on the finish.” WSvFood pairings? You could go Vietnamese, Thai or Korean here, but not too spicy. Otherwise, perhaps chicken thighs with mushrooms? Or, this divine dish from St. Peray’s own Restaurant la Drez’in – Fresh Brown River Trout with Brown Butter accompanied by Risotto with Asparagus Tips. Click on the picture for a similar dish with spring vegetables.

Francois Villard St. Joseph Blanc Fruit d'Avilleran 2019

Sale $31.99

94 pts Wine Spectator

100% Marsanne. 70% of the vines are over 40 years in age, the rest around 15. The wine is aged in barrel (10% new) for 11 months. Weekly batonnage (lees stirring) occurs once per week for 6 months.

The old vines are key here. They result in a more aromatic and intense expression than is typical of Marsanne. Floral notes jump from the glass, leading into a bright wine filled with citrus and peach flavors. The finish is long with a hint of citrus pith adding complexity and interest. This is, paradoxically, lighter than the St. Peray… yet more intense. Hard to explain… you have to try.

“Acacia and honeysuckle notes leap to the fore, followed by lively yellow plum and white peach flavors. Long finish has a quinine thread that adds energy and tension. Nicely done. Drink now through 2027.” WS

Less a match for southeast Asian food, I like this with simpler fare. Trout Almondine is a classic. Of course, the same trout dish above would be lovely. Invite some friends! Open both bottles!


Or reply. The wine will be available Wednesday in Chapel Hill. Friday, as ordered, in Hillsborough.