Kumeu River - Chardonnay Kumeu Maté's Vineyard 2023
Price: $109.99
Sale Price: $71.99
| Producer | Kumeu River |
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| Country | New Zealand |
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| Region | Auckland |
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| Varietal | Chardonnay |
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| Vintage | 2023 |
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| Sku | 09041 |
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| Size | 750ml |
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The Brajkovich family’s Kumeu Estate has been the benchmark for Chardonnay in the southern hemisphere for over four decades. I’m not a huge fan of comparing Chardonnay from new world to Burgundy, but Kumeu’s wines tasted blind can fool even the greatest of palates. In May of 2015, a panel of wine experts from Decanter Magazine (including Jancis Robinson MW, Derek Smedley MW, and Neal Martin) blind-tasted the Kumeu Chardonnays against similarly-styled Burgundies. For both the Estate and Hunting Hill bottlings, Puligny-Montrachet was used as the reference point. And not one of the tasters could pick out which was the Kumeu. Against the likes of Domaine Leflaive AOC ($500+ a bottle) and 1er Cru ($800+), Drouhin 1er Cru Pucelles ($700+), Carillon 1er Champ Canet ($400+), Sauzet AOC ($400) and others, the Kumeu Chards didn’t just hold their own, they rose to the top!
The Kumeu Estate covers 30 hectares of vineyards just 20 miles north of Auckland on New Zealand’s north island. Despite being far north (closer to the equator) than most of New Zealand’s other viticultural regions, Kumeu’s climate is cooled by its close proximity to both the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean. This unique micro-climate combined with a mix of clay and sand based soils (great for retaining water without the need for irrigation) produces strong vines and highly aromatic fruit. Michael Brajkovich is the third generation of his family to run the family estate that his grandfather Mick founded in 1944. Michael was New Zealand’s first Master of Wine (MW) and is head winemaker at Kumeu today. He trained in France in the 1980’s and his approach to winemaking is very much of the old world. “The taste you should experience with my Chardonnay is light, elegant, and flinty. It will not be a big, bold, buttery oak bash. In the European tradition, I’ve designed my wines to be enjoyed at the table and to be accompanied with food of your choice.”
Farr Vintners have been the UK distributor for Kumeu River for over 30 years. Here’s principal owner Stephen Browett’s take on the 2020 Mate's: " The vines for Mate's Vineyard turned 30 years old for the 2020 vintage here. The Brajkovich family believe this is the highest quality fruit they have ever harvested from this site, the Mendoza clone bringing the perfect blend of smaller, thicker-skinned berries and larger, fresher ones. The fruit is hand harvested and whole bunch pressed before spontaneous fermentation and maturation in Seguin Moreau and Mercurey barrels - of which 30% are new. 1300 cases produced. Bright lemon colour in the glass. Rich and expansive on the nose, bringing the best of Hunting Hill and Coddington together - there is tension and struck match but also rich, heady apricot fruit. The palate is dense and concentrated, oily with peaches, apricot and lemon oil. The volume is held together by a pithy grip and bright, zesty acidity. Complexity comes in waves from spice, succulent fruit and savoury, mineral tones. A structured and harmonious wine, it is an incredibly impressive iteration of Mate's Vineyard.”
James Suckling: 97 Points
Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy: 95 Points
"More reticent than the other wines on the nose but the richness and density come through on the palate. The Mendoza clone fruit really shines this year, the small berries giving and intensity and concentration. This is the 31st vintage of Matés and Brajkovich is committed to treasure the vines, even though ever present leaf-roll virus remains. Enticing and fine boned with a surprisingly lengthy finish. Drink from 2027 - 2032." - Jane Skilton MW
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