Sabine Godme - Blanc de Blancs NV
Price: $68.99
Producer | Sabine Godme |
Country | France |
Region | Champagne |
Varietal | Champagne |
Sku | 05465 |
Size | 750ml |
I am soooo totally patting myself on the back for finding this gem, as it is a ridiculous value thanks to two compelling factors. At the risk of giving too much information, I am going to dive right in…
For starters, let’s examine the vineyard. Villers Marmery is located in the famed Montagne de Reims region of Champagne, noted for its Pinot Noir. “Wait… what? Pinot Noir? But this is Blanc de Blancs, right? 100% Chardonnay? What gives?”
Ah… I was getting to that… Villers Marmery is an outlier – the rare Chardonnay village in the Pinot Noir mecca of Montagne de Reims. Along with three other communes, Villers Marmery is part of the Perle blanche – the “white pearl” – a small area on the eastern side of the mountain that provides the perfect conditions for growing Chardonnay.
“Okay… while that’s interesting, I don’t see how that contributes to the value proposition of this wine.”
Sheesh… give me a minute, will ya?
Okay, so here’s the deal… Champagne is classified according to the Échelle des Crus ("ladder of growth"), wherein each village is assigned a rating on a 100 pt scale. Grand Cru vineyards are rated 100, Premier crus are 90-99, and the rest are 80-89. (I know… that’s really only a 20 point scale… but… well… French…) Each year, a price for a kilogram of grapes is set and grape growers receive a proportion of that price based off their vineyard classification – eg, a vineyard rated 80 will command 80% of the set price.
So, to a large degree, the price of a Champagne can be directly linked to its classification.
But… what if a village and its vineyards have been classified incorrectly? If they are better than their classification? Well… cha-ching for us! We get the value! And that is exactly what is happening here. When classification occurred over 100 years ago, Villers Marmery was mostly planted to Pinot Noir. Through time, growers have realized its ideal situation for Chardonnay and have replanted. Most Champagne experts feel Villers Marmery is Grand Cru level now. But it was only elevated to Premier Cru status in 1985, and may never achieve Grand Cru status.
Boom… Grand Cru caliber Champagne for Premier Cru pricing!
As one would expect from 100% Chardonnay, this is as elegant as they come. A bright nose of freesia, lemon zest and chalk gives way to a creamy mouthful of citrus-tinged bubbles. Hints of ginger and green apple add complexity and staying power on the delicate finish. Super silky, with just the right balance of minerality. Superb as an aperitif, but plenty of oomph to pair with a light fish dish. When was the last time you had Champagne with dinner? How ‘bout this weekend?
Sabine Godme Description
100% Chardonnay from the Premier Cru Village of Villers-Marmery (classified at 99%); dosage 8gr/l ; 50% reserve wine; 2 years minimum ageing on the lees. Villers-Marmery is a Chardonnay dominated village with chalky soils, and many experts believe that it would have been granted Grand Cru status if it had been planted to at least 90% Chardonnay when the Échelle des Crus classification was created in 1919. Chalky, pointed nose; laser beam precision with quince, lemon, toast and tons of mineral.
Wine Enthusiast: 93 Points
Made from Chardonnay from the Montagne de Reims with 50% reserve wine, this is a very fine, balanced and textured Champagne. It is fresh, floral, dry but never too crisp. The aftertaste leaves elegance and freshness. Drink now.
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